Throughout the pheasant range, nesting cover is the single most important 
limiting factor for wildlife populations. Thankfully, it remains one of the few 
factors we can directly impact by establishing the right vegetation and managing 
it correctly. Hen pheasants start nesting beginning in April within residual 
vegetation from the previous year and conclude by mid-July. It is during this 
time pheasants need secure and undisturbed cover.
Ideal nesting cover is:
- Secure - cover providing overhead and horizontal concealment from predators
 - Undisturbed - cover free from both human (mowing, dog training) and weather 
related (flooding) disturbances 
 
Pheasants live out their lives within a home range of about one square mile, 
requiring all habitat components (nesting cover, brood habitat, winter cover and 
food) to be in close proximity. Ideally, 30-60 acres, or about 5-10% of this 
range should be nesting cover. Larger blocks of cover are preferable to narrow 
linear strips. However, linear cover, like waterways, roadsides, and field 
borders, is important to wildlife on a landscape level.
Points to consider
- Linear cover is easier for predators to search during nesting; however, it 
benefits pheasants significantly after nesting by providing travel links between 
fragmented agricultural habitats. Hint: Southern Minnesota studies have shown 
that for linear cover up to 60 feet wide, nesting success for pheasants goes up 
1% for every 1-foot increase in strip width. Wider is better
 - Research tests have shown 20 acre blocks to be the target size for 
maximizing nest densities
 - Roadsides are mowed and burned far too frequently. Delayed mowing, and spot 
mowing or spraying accomplishes weed control in roadsides at less cost and does 
not disturb nesting hens
 - Roadsides provide important grassland habitat, with up to five acres of 
potential nesting cover along each mile of rural Midwest roads. In some areas, 
40% of pheasants in the fall population are produced in roadsides 
 
Establishing Nesting Cover
Providing proper nest cover should be the cornerstone of all pheasant 
management plans. Establishing nesting cover requires land, funds, and manpower. 
Consult with a Pheasants Forever chapter if you have questions about grass seed 
mixes or other nest cover concerns.
Cool or Warm Season Grass
Cool-season (non-native) grasses like timothy, orchard grass and tall or 
intermediate wheat grass begin growth in the cool, spring months. They reach 
maturity by early summer and then become dormant until cooler fall temperatures 
stimulate growth again. Cool-season grasses are generally easier to establish, 
cost less, but require more intensive management to retain their productivity. 
Single species stands of cool-season grasses are of little or no value to 
nesting pheasants.
To realize their potential as nesting cover, cool season grasses need to be 
mixed with legumes such as alfalfa, alike, and red or sweet clover. Even with 
maintenance, most cool-season grass stands must eventually be replanted because 
the legumes are out-competed by the grass and eventually die.
Warm-season (native) grasses such as indian grass, switch grass, big and little 
blue stem begin growth much later in the spring, reaching full maturity in late 
summer or early fall. Warm-season grasses produce high quality cover when 
cool-season grasses lie dormant. If left undisturbed, these grasses may provide 
good winter habitat and residual nesting cover for the following spring. 
Warm-season grasses are generally more difficult and costly to establish, but 
are easier to manage. Typical management includes controlled burning on a 3-5 
year rotation.
Diversify your plantings
Single grass stands may be easier to plant; however, mixed stands of cool or 
warm season grasses complemented with Forbes will provide greater diversity and 
consequently be more attractive to wildlife. Inter seeding legumes or planting 
separate plots of cool-season and warm-season grasses can also improve nesting 
and brood-rearing cover.
- Cool-season grass/legume mixes typically contain tall or intermediate 
wheatgrass, orchardgrass, timothy, redtop and alfalfa or one of several clovers
 - Warm-season mixes usually contain switchgrass, indiangrass, big blue-stem, 
little blue-stem and 4-10 forbs such as butterfly milkweed, prairie asters or 
clovers, coneflowers, sunflowers, indigo, and stiff goldenrod 
 
Managing Nesting Cover
The wildlife value of grasses generally declines as vegetation ages, and the 
vigor of the cover is diminished. It is for this reason that managing nesting 
cover is usually more important than what species you choose to plant.
Burning
Controlled burning (in early spring) is a critical tool in the management of 
grasses. Woody plants and other unwanted vegetation can be eliminated by proper 
use of fire. Burning also releases the nutrients bound in the plant litter, 
stimulating vigorous new growth following the burn. Burning can be very 
dangerous if not done properly as grasses produce extremely hot fires that 
spread rapidly.
- Before you burn, make sure to contact your local biologist, fire department 
and NRCS office to receive the necessary burn plans and permits
 - Burning should be done every 3-5 years 
 
Mowing
Mowing of any type of cover (for haying, weed or brush control) should be 
delayed until after the nesting season has concluded (mid-July). In newly 
established areas, mowing the first year is a good idea if weed competition is 
severe. After cover is established, mowing segments of a field on a 3-4 year 
rotation will keep the vegetation rejuvenated. Leave 10-12 inches of cover after 
the last cutting, particularly with warm-season grasses. This is a sufficient 
height to provide some residual cover for nesting and to protect plant 
vigor.
- Whenever possible, use spot mowing rather than blanket cutting for weed 
control
 - Remember, there is absolutely no reason to mow (disturb) nest cover during 
the nesting season 
 
Discing
Light mechanical discing in the early spring can also restore plant vigor by 
opening up a stand of grass and reducing the effects of crowded root systems. 
This practice is more attractive for wildlife because it effectively increases 
diversity by creating a seed bed for annual herbaceous plants.
Where to find help
Various federal, state and private conservation programs may help defray some 
of the cost of establishing nest cover. Contact your county USDA Farm Service 
Agency office, state wildlife agency or local Pheasants Forever chapter to 
start. These same agencies oftentimes rent specialized planting and maintenance 
equipment. Habitat design assistance is available from state wildlife agencies, 
the US Fish and Wildlife Service, or your PF regional biologist.
A measure of success
There are many good types of nesting cover. A simple field exercise to test 
the adequacy of your nest cover would be to throw a football 20 feet into your 
habitat. If it disappears and there are several species of grasses and forbs 
around the ball, you likely have adequate cover. Conduct this test in mid-April 
and then monitor the field to ensure there is no disturbance for the next 3 
months. Finally, remember that nesting cover is dynamic. If the cover looks 
great this year, chances are it won't look that good in 2 years. Plan ahead to 
manage grass cover successfully. In all likelihood, it is the very best thing 
you can do for pheasants in your area.
Still confused about nesting cover?
Then try the Pheasants Forever Essential Habitat Guide - a handy reference on 
all kinds of pheasant cover, including shelterbelts, food plots and nest cover. 
And, be sure to check with your local Pheasants Forever chapter, where you will 
find cost sharing, planting assistance, or just advice from a friendly chapter 
volunteer.